Sunday 5 February 2012

Fibreglass LaserTaggers

Welcome to my fibreglass laser taggers using the MilesTag system I live in Scotland so some of you might find it had to unerstand my accent in the videos, but I'm sure you'll figure it out. lol

If this site has help you!  You can help us a small donation to our Children's Charity Group could make a BIG differance to our charity at www.ochilexplorers.com Many Thanks

These are two of the 17 taggers made in fibreglass, a new model is in progress at the moment will post when the MDF model is built.
 
NEW:      Domination Game Box                       July 2013
 
 
 

A Milestag UMT board running modified software to act as a domination tube. Two 7 segment displays are used to count red and blue team wins. RGB leds are used to indicate current team also sound effects.  Thanks to Tony at  www.tagbits.co.uk  for modifying the board.

Video:   http://youtu.be/oishOrA3MSs
 

 
 
Airsoft Conversion Conversion Video        May 2013

Video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nee0licO2XM



Fit this simple conversion into your MilesTag umt or core board.


New: Multi-Game Box              
Video at:  http://youtu.be/tQ64PkoF8ow   June 2013


Short video showing how we re-cased  Lasergame Berlin's Multi-Box into a Waterproof Peli-Case,   just to give you guy's an idea what you can do with it.  The Multi-Box has built in Domination Game / Laser Bomb Mode with IR Radiation Emiters / Ammo /Respawn /Health / Flag Station and act as a Team Base, it also collect's Scoring Data.  Sold by www.lasergame-berlin.de

         New Video:  http://youtu.be/EHyEJRjQHLM  2014 Game in Play


                    Fibreglass taggers just from the mould.



This is a list of what you need, don't need many tools for fibreglassing, but you'll need a mouse sander and a good knife for finishing off, check out my blog for the how to videos. Do not buy epoxy resin or woven mat.
My Videos show you everything else.
 
Shopping list
450g (1.5 oz) Chopped Strand Matting-3 kg / 6.6 sq mt £10.95 Not woven
Chopped Strands - 6 mm-5 KG £15.50 If can't get, order more mat then use Sissors cut
General purposeployester Resin - (including catalyst)- 2 x 5Kg £30.00 Not epoxy
Polyester Gel-Coat - RAL 7024 graphite grey-2.5 KG £16.95 Whatever colour you like
Blue Matt PVA Release Agent-1 Lt £5.95 Matt let you see when its dry
Extra Catalyst/hardner - Medium Reactivity - MEKP-1 Kg £6.00 Also need for cleaning brushes
Honeywax 14 oz Tin-1 Tin £12.25 Most waxes will do
Nitrile Gloves 100 Large-Pack of 100 £4.99 Maybe think about a mask for the dust
Wooden Spatula mixing sticks-Box of 100 £2.98 Save using the wifes kitchen stuff
1" wooden handle brushes- 2 x Boxes of 12 £6.40 Found this size best for tagger building
Sub Total: £111.97

I also used a colour pigmet in each resin mix to keep the colour running through the whole tagger, this helps stop showing any scratches on the tagger. S00g tin about £8.00 Just need a very small bit on the end of the mixing stick for each mix Also Flex additive if you can get if as this makes the tagger less prone to chips.

This amount should make 10-12 Taggers plus one mold, divide if you intend to make less, this works out just over £10 per case base on UK prices. Hope this is what your looking for. Scorpy

9 comments:

  1. Did you purchase pre-tinted gelcoat or tint yourself? Pretinted gelcoat is very expensive here in the states, $30+ for a quart. I was thinking of going with just black which I can get a quart of for $14+s&h.(would need 2). Prices for these supplies are way higher in the us.. is flex additive a must? I can't find it anywhere in the states.

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    1. Jarian, I use pre-coloured gelcoat, the flex ad is not necessary, just go easy on the hardener when you mix, only thing I would recommend that after the gelcoat the mold is tack dry try and use chopped strands of fibreglass for the first layer as this beds in better, if you can't get it over there, just spend 15mins chopping up some matting with scissors about 5-10mm pieces. Bruch the gelcoat with a layer of resin then sprinkle over the chopped strands over the gelcoat. Hope this helps, good luck with your build. Scorpy

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    2. Thanks for the help, how did you secure the two sections together? I heard you say something about plastic screws? Did you use a bolt/nut or a screw? How did you keep it from protruding through the other side?

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  3. Plastic bolts and nuts, made a small round recess for each bolt on the model before moulding the fibreglass part then just drill out the hole in the fibreglass then attach the bolts don't need many, butt/handle/magand two at each side of the rail,, the pipe for the lens holds the front bit. Scorpy

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